Day 66 – Santiago de Atitlan, GU to Antigua, GU

Day 66 – Santiago de Atitlan, GU to Antigua, GU     10/26/10     Mileage: 106

 The weather this morning was great and we had a nice breakfast on the patio overlooking the lake.

Me in front of the Toliman volcano from the Hotel Bamboo...

...and Tracy too.

After letting breakfast settle we took the hotels’ kayak for a quick spin which was good fun and provided spectacular views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

Kayaking on Lake Atitlan...

A nice setting to kayak for sure...

View of the Hotel Bamboo from the kayak...

Once the bike was packed, we rode over to Panajachel on the other side of the lake where we had a great lunch.

Lake Atitlan from the road to Panajachel...

Welcome to Panajachel!

Lunch in Panajachel on the north side of Lake Atitlan...

We took a quick spin around town before heading for our final destination today…Antigua, which is a cool Spanish colonial town. It took around two hours to get there and we pulled into town shortly before dark.

Antigua, Guatemala...

The Casa Florencia, our home base in Antigua...

After finding a room we set off to have dinner and settled on a place right on the town square called Chimino’s.

Chimino's is right on the town square in Antigua...

It was a fantastic dinner in a great setting complete with a very talented acoustic guitarist playing some Latin songs. Afterwards we walked around a bit more and capped off the night with desert and a glass of port.

Day 65 – Monterrico, GU to Santiago de Atitlan, GU

Day 65 – Monterrico, GU to Santiago de Atitlan, GU     10/25/10     Mileage: 113

The hotel cocina was buttoned up tight as we seemed to be the only guests…so we made the morning coffee on my backpacking stove and snacked on some tortillas I’ve been carrying. So after our “home cooked” breakfast, we set out for Santiago on the southern shore of Lake Atitlan. The condition of the roads deteriorated once we started up into the mountains, but that was inevitable.

Back on the dirt...

On the road to Santiago de Atitlan, we bottomed the bike on some nasty speed bumps...this wasn't one of them though.

Along the road to Santiago de Atitlan...

 We bottomed out the rear suspension a few times over some large speed bumps…even though I was going dead slow. The skid plate took some hits as did the center stand and lower rear suspension linkage, but it seems OK.

Looks like we're going to get wet...and we did. Fortunately it didn't last long.

We pulled into Santiago de Atitlan mid afternoon and tracked down lunch at the Hotel Bamboo which has a fantastic setting right on Lake Atitlan looking across the water at downtown Santiago.

Lunch at the Hotel Bamboo

Looking across the lake at downtown Santiago from the patio of the Hotel Bamboo...

Tracy had seen this place online as well and we decided to stay the night there. The room was $65 including breakfast…steep by Guatemala standards, but worth every penny.

The view from the landing in front of our room...not too shaby at all!

After lunch we took a manic tuk-tuk ride into town, walked around a bit, had a coffee and did some shopping.

Here's our tuk-tuk taxi...heading for downtown Santiago...

Tracy and the tuk-tuk...

Tracy on the hunt...

We had a funny exchange with this shop keeper. Nothing is priced and everything is for sale…you better like to haggle!
Back at the hotel we had a late bite to eat, used the wifi and then called it a night.

Day 64 – Monterrico, GU

Day 64 – Monterrico, GU     10/24/10     Mileage: Local miles

 We were up relatively early and after the morning coffee, I did some maintenance on the KLR. The air filter was long overdue (again) to be cleaned and I had a new swingarm chain slider to put on that Tracy brought me from the States.

Giving the KLR some much needed luv...

After I was done giving the KLR some love, we went into “town” for breakfast…huevos of course.

I had to dodge a pelican on the way to breakfast....that doesn't happen everyday for sure!

"Main street" Monterrico...

Around town in Monterrico...

Tracy getting her cookie fix...

The policia ride dual-sport motorcycles...cool!

We walked off the huevos around town and then took the KLR further up the coast to the town of Hawaii. Once back at the hotel we did more pool time and just chilled out.

The ocean was very rough and the waves were huge. Nobody was swimming and all you could do is wade in up to your knees or you might get sucked out to sea!

That night we walked back into town for dinner and followed that up with a drink at Johnny’s before packing it in.

Fish, it's what's for dinner...

The aftermath...

Day 63 – Guatemala City, GU to Monterrico, GU

Day 63 – Guatemala City, GU to Monterrico, GU     10/23/10     Mileage: 87

 We were up relatively early but waited for rush hour to pass before setting out towards San Jose and the Pacific coast of Guatemala. I was a bit concerned about overloading the bike riding two up with all the gear, but the KLR actually handled it just fine! It was needless to say pretty ass heavy and handled like ox cart, but it was totally ride-able.

Packed and ready to go...

The ride down to the coast couldn’t have been easier as it was on a baby bottom smooth toll road that connects Guatemala City to the Pacific coast. The cool dry mountain air gave way to the moist warm tropical air with each passing mile and in 90 minutes we arrived at the Pacific Ocean. We rode along the coast in search of a beach front hotel to park ourselves for 2 days and knew we found the right spot when we pulled into beach side town of Monterrico. There were several hotels on the beach, but we liked the Hotel Mangle which cost Q650…or around $80 for 2 nights!

The Hotel Mangle in Monterrico...

The Hotel Mangle from the beach...

The restaurant patio...

The cozy pool area...

Our room looking out on our balcony...

Our own private balcony overlooking the beach...

We quickly parked the bike, changed into our swimsuits and hit the pool…beers in hand of course!  After some pool time, we split a pizza over a few more drinks.

Thin crust pizza + beer + beach = a thin slice of heaven!

That night we went down the beach a bit to another cool beach front joint called Johnny’s where we had dinner and a drink.

Chillin at Johnny's Place...

Afterwards we walked back to our hotel and chilled out on our private deck overlooking the beach before turning in.

Still a week behind…

Hi Everyone!

The blog is still a week behind…sorry for that! I am currently in Antigua, Guatemala and will be for the next week at least attending a language school, so I should have time to get caught up soon…

Thanks!

-Lenny

Day 62 – San Cristobal de las Casas, MX to Guatemala City, GU

Day 62 – San Cristobal de las Casas, MX  to Guatemala City, GU   10/22/10     Mileage: 324

Today I say goodbye to Mexico and hello to Guatemala! I’d also be saying hello to my friend Tracy who was flying into Guatemala City to meet me later today and ride with me for the next week around Guatemala! I was up and out the door by 8am this morning so I could get to the border relatively early in the day.

Getting ready for the last few miles in Mexico!

Passing through Teopisca, MX...

Not much going on in Teopisca this morning!

Last PEMEX and chance for gas before the border, so I topped up the tank...

I’ve heard and read accounts of border crossings in Central America that range from not too bad to 8+ hour ordeals, so I wanted to give myself as much time as possible in case of the worst. The air this morning was downright cold…I even had to put on my heavier riding gloves which I haven’t used since Oregon. As I descended out of the mountains it warmed up and became more humid, and after about 2 hours I was at the Mexican side of the border. The first job was to “export” the bike from Mexico which is done at the Banjercito. There were throngs of people on various lines in front of nameless offices waiting for some official stamp or signature so they can get on with their lives. Mercifully, there was nobody on line at the Banjercito….but then again there was nobody working in the office either. After confirming I was in the right spot, now I just had to wait for someone to show up. After 30 minutes an official came out and began to slowly, but deliberately cancel my import permit. Once all that paperwork had been properly shuffled, I was now able to go to the immigration to get stamped out of Mexico. Now with both me and the bike exported from Mexico, I was off to cross the 3 miles of “no-mans” land to Guatemala. As I approached the border, I came upon what I would describe as a cross between a Turkish bizarre and the running of the bulls in Pamplona. The narrow road was lined on both sides with stalls selling everything from farm produce to Nike sneakers to car parts. Squeezed between the stalls on either side of the narrow road was a river of humanity flowing (or trying to at least) in both directions on foot, in cars, buses, horse drawn carts, tuk-tuk’s and one gringo on a moto. I wanted to take a picture but I was focused on managing the craziness!

Here is pic after the crowds and craziness thinned out a bit and I was able to stop and get out my camera.

Here's another after the crowd thinned out...

Once at the border, an official stopped me in the road and informed me that my bike needed to be disinfected and that it would 12.50…payable only in quetzales, the local Guatemalan currency. I had read about this and it is legit and I even got an official receipt. Of course, I’m pretty sure it was just water he sprayed my tires with…but for the equivalent of $1.50, who cares.

Here is my bike being "disinfected" at the Guatemala border, which is 5 feet behind where my bike is parked.

Next I proceeded to the immigration office, and unbelievably there was nobody in line, so I had my stamp in under a minute! Now I was off to import the bike at the aduana office a few doors down. There was nobody in line there either and after filling out a form, doing some other paperwork and paying the fee’s at the bank office next door, I was in! All told it took me only around 2 hours to cross the border, which is better than I expected.

This is right at the border just past the immigration office looking into Guatemala...

 Now I had plenty of time to get to Guatemala City to the hotel and then to meet Tracy at the airport at 9pm. The CA1 road from the border was a twisty jumble of ups and downs through the rural countryside and the same as Mexico with regard to the quality (or lack thereof) of the road. There were however fewer animals in the road…but still some.

On the CA1 south towards Guatemala City...

Another from the CA1 south...

Guatemala is very mountainous, the few shots I got with my helmet camera do not do it justice!

The road is closed, I think I'll scoot to the front past all of this traffic!

I hit Guatemala City at 5:30pm, just in time to have to fight my way through manic rush hour traffic. I had the address of the hotel programmed into my GPS, but there was no hotel in sight when I arrived at the address and I found myself in the shady part of town. I’m not sure what was wrong, but I sure as hell wasn’t going to stay there in the street to figure it out…so I dropped it in gear and hit the gas. I tracked down and checked into a hotel near the airport that had secure parking and dropped my bags in the room. It was now almost 8:15 so I got back on the bike and went to the airport to meet Tracy. Her flight was right on time and we were back at the hotel by 9:45. After a quick drink and a bite to eat at the hotel lounge, we packed it in to rest up for the ride to the coast tomorrow.

Day 61 – Puerto Escondito, MX to San Cristobal de las Casas, MX

Day 61 – Puerto Escondito, MX to San Cristobal de las Casas, MX     10/21/10     Mileage:  401

It was hard to peel myself from the sheets this morning, but the road beckons. So after another shower just because I could, I set off in hopes of making it to San Cristobal de las Casas high in the mountainous interior of southern Mexico.

Twists and turns on MEX 200 south...

Passing through Salina Cruz, MX

Lane splitting for motorcycles is legal in Mexico and a great way to get through traffic...

PEMEX is more or less the national gas station of Mexico, and they are generally very well maintained, clean, plentiful and often have a little convenience store. They are sometimes like a little concrete oasis in the dusty craziness of Mexico.

Cattle crossing...

The first few hours of riding were nice but average until I reached Tapanatepec, where I had a decision to make. I could stay on the Pan American highway with the relative safety it offers by being the main road north/south or I could veer inland into the mountainous interior region that borders Guatemala where San Cristobal de las Casas was located. I had just enough daylight left to make it to San Cristobal, so I decided to make a run for it. The road climbed away from the coast with each twist and turn and the air was getting cool and dry. After 20 miles I was beginning to second guess my decision as I had not seen a building or another vehicle on the road save for a truck heading down the other way. If something were to happen, I would be completely on my own. I remembered a conversation I had with my friend John shortly before crossing into Mexico, and his advice was that speed is safety…and he’s right. As long as I’m moving, I’m OK. It’s if I stop, or am stopped…that’s when the situation could get beyond my control. So with that in mind, and my loathing to backtrack, I leaned on the KLR’s throttle and hoped for the best. After a while I began to see some cars, buildings and other signs of life and was more at ease. After passing through the bustling city of Tuxtla Gutierrez, the road turned sharply uphill towards San Cristobal and the air got downright….dare I say…cold! At the top of the pass, the GPS read 8,500 feet above sea level and San Cristobal was not much lower than that. As I pulled into town I got caught up in a manic maze of people and traffic on the narrow colonial era streets. It took quite a while to find my way to the town center, but once I did I knew I liked it here! The town center was alive with people and music and I couldn’t wait to get off the bike to soak it all in.

San Cristobal de las Casas town center...

San Cristobal de las Casas city center...

San Cristobal pedestrian only street...

San Cristobal town square...

I found a hotel 2 blocks from the town square with a center courtyard for the KLR and the price was more than right at $200 pesos…or $16 USD. Once settled I was off to find dinner, some drinks and to take in the atmosphere. A few of the streets near the town square were pedestrian only and some of the bars and cafe’s had tables out on the sidewalk. The cool mountain air was a welcome change from the heat and humidity of the coast and it was enjoyable just to walk around and enjoy the scene.

San Cristobal...

I forgot the name of this church...sorry!

There were many inviting places to eat, but I finally parked myself at a cute cafe called La Vina de Bocco for a glass of wine (or 2 or 3!) and some tapas.

La Vina de Bocca...

Afterwards I took another stroll around the town center and called it a night.

Day 60 – Calvario, MX to Puerto Escondito, MX

Day 60 – Calvario, MX to Puerto Escondito, MX     10/20/10     Mileage:  365

I was up with the sun this morning and on the road shortly after. After two hours of riding I rolled into Acapulco and was surprised to find a huge bustling city choked with traffic, and not the quaint seaside resort down I had envisioned. I made my way straight to the waterfront and found a nice restaurant on the beach for breakfast.

Acapulco beach...

Acapulco beach...

Nice little restaurant on the beach...

Inside the cute beach front restaurant...

 After my huevos and coconut water, I high tailed it out of there for the less hectic countryside. The riding was good but average and the scenery was the same.

Passing through another dirty dusty town along the way...

and another...

Entering a military checkpoint...one of dozens I passed through in Mexico. They don't like having their picture taken, but they didn't notice the camera mounted on my handlebar.

Here's another military checkpoint later in the day...

The road south on MEX 200...

MEX 200 south...

Getting my fill of twisty roads!

It was dusk by the time I pulled into Puerto Escondito, and as I’ve been riding since dawn, I was not up to spending an hour searching for a cheap hotel that met all the criteria. So I consulted my AAA Mexico guide and they had 3 hotels listed, the least expensive of which was the Casamar at $42 per night. It was over my budget (as most in the AAA guide are), but wow what a nice place! It had a gated courtyard for the bike, an inviting pool and the room was great….complete with a river stone shower and full kitchen.

The hotel Casamar in Puerto Escondito...not bad for $42!

The Casamar grounds...

Secure courtyard parking for the KLR...

My room at the Casamar was great...

So after a dip in the pool and an overdue shower, I was off to the luxury of clean sheets and a soft bed.

Day 59 – Manzanillo, MX to Calvario, MX

Day 59 – Manzanillo, MX to Calvario, MX     10/19/10     Mileage: 336

 This morning I was up early to give the KLR some mechanical TLC while I had a good spot to do it.

Giving the KLR some TLC....

The road south today was again filled with twists, turns and curves…all which are normally great fun. The difference here compared to the US is the unpredictability of the road surface and any number of obstacles that lie around every blind corner that makes it nerve-racking. As for the road itself, around every corner it could turn from near perfect pavement to loose gravel, dirt or have a bike swallowing pothole. The lanes themselves are narrow and rarely have any kind of shoulder. So, run a corner wide, and you’re in the ditch or over the cliff. 

A deserted beach along the road south...there are too many to count...

....and another...

...and another.

As for what’s on the road, there could be a bus or truck in your lane either to avoid a truck eating pothole in their lane or simply because they are going too fast and veered into your lane! I had a number of these close calls and was forced to swerve to the very edge of my lane, while avoiding the other road hazards. And by other road hazards I mean rocks, coconuts, dogs, chickens, cows, donkeys, pigs, cats, goats, horses and any and every other domesticated and non-domesticated animal! Fences, leashes and other forms of quadruped confinement are simply not used and they are free to roam wherever they like. The herbivores seem particularly fond of the lush grass that seems to grow on the side of the road(where the shoulder should be), and the natural perch from which to graze is of course your lane. Other hazards include slow moving horse drawn carts, broken down trucks, bicycles, pedestrians, etc…all in the road because there is absolutely no shoulder. Sunlight faded before I could reach the next town, so I was forced to stop and look for a place to rest for the night. There was a grouping of restaurants right on the beach, and I asked one of the owners if I could camp on the beach in front of her place. They were already closed, but I did buy some tortillas (and beer) to make a tuna wrap with the tuna I had with me. So, after dinner and a quick dip in the ocean that would have to stand in for a much needed shower, I was off to my tent to be lulled to sleep by the crashing waves.

Sunset on my beach camp...

Day 58 – San Blas, MX to Manzanillo, MX

Day 58 – San Blas, MX to Manzanillo, MX     10/18/10     Mileage: 286

 Morning in San Blas came with the bellowing mixture of advertisements and local music emanating from a truck with large loud speakers that must charge for ads to blast to the local populace, and the occasional gringo tourist. Not being interested in anything they were advertising, even if I understood what they advertising, I packed up the bike and split. Today was mostly about making miles south, with the notable exception of Puerto Vallarta.

Welcome to Puerto Vallarta!

The beach in Puerto Vallarta

Too bad I couldn't stay...the beach looks nice!

It wasn’t in the cards to stay the night there, but I did head downtown to check out the scene. It has a very walk-able downtown area with cobblestone streets and all the typical tourist shops. It has a nice waterfront where I found a bar serving great fish tacos and cold Pacifico…nice!

A great little bar on the beach....

Living the life!

I spoke with one of the waiters who gave me some great advice for the road south…which was to always pay attention to 1) the pot holes and 2) the vehicles in your side of the road avoiding the potholes in their side of the road! He couldn’t have been more right, as the coast road was horrendous south of Puerto Vallarta and was nerve-racking having to constantly dodge potholes and cars around blind curves sandwiched between the mountain side and the cliff. Nightfall would catch up to me in Manzanillo where I found a nice hotel on the water with secure parking for the motorcycle in the center courtyard.

More posts are on the way…

Hi All!

I’ve haven’t been able to find a reliable internet connection to upload all the pictures, but more posts are coming as soon as I do. Thanks for all the great comments!

Here is a sunset from the other day…

Sunset on the Pacific...

Day 57 – Topolobampo, MX to San Blas, MX

Day 57 – Topolobampo, MX to San Blas, MX     10/17/10     Mileage: 464

 Morning came when the phone rang at 7am and I think they were looking for money to extend my stay. Instead, I packed up the bike and beat it south towards Mazatlan. I took the “cuota”, or toll road instead of the “libre” free road as it is in much faster, well maintained and has much less traffic. The problem is it is bloody expensive even by American standards…it cost me over $40 US to go around 300 miles….ouch.

Welcome to Mazatlan!

Mazatlan seems typical of most Mexican resort towns in that the resorts that most people see (and may never leave) are separate from the town itself. I of course skipped resort row and went to the downtown waterfront which was pretty cool and has a nice vibe.

Looking back towards the resort area of Mazatlan...

The Mazatlan town waterfront...

Having a light lunch on the Mazatlan waterfront...

The Mazatlan downtown waterfront...

The Mazatlan downtown waterfront...

I found a little cafe on the water for lunch, and while sitting there I was approached by an older fellow who was interested in my bike. Richard is retired and has been living in Mazatlan for 15 years now. He also rides, so we swapped war stories from the road and he gave me some good info on the road south…including a town called San Blas, which he said was a nice spot to spend the night. After lunch I pointed the KLR south again, now for my new destination for tonight…San Blas. I got sick of paying the tolls on the “cuota” road, so I veered off and started making my way over to the “libre”. Well, it wasn’t long before the road put me in a hopelessly confusing town built like a maze. After making approximately 65.3 wrong turns, I pulled over and asked 3 hombres in my pigeon Spanish if they knew where the Rt 15 free highway was. They miraculously understood my question, but the answer came at me hard and fast in Spanish and I didn’t understand a word. The one guy must have seen my blank stare and saw that we were getting no ware…and I was literally getting no ware…so he motioned for me to follow him in his truck parked across the street. Within a few minutes, and a dizzying number of right and left turns…we emerged from town. He pulled over and I thanked him profusely…and might still be wandering around that town were it not for him taking time out of his day to help the stupid lost gringo find his way. So after another 45 minutes and several more wrong turns, I finally made it to San Blas. This was a quaint Mexican beach town free of anything gringo…I like it! I found a hotel for $24 complete with air conditioning and wifi…sweet! They also said hot water…but like the last few places I stayed…the words hot water are rather ambiguous it seems down here. “Less cold” than the regular cold water would be more accurate. Or, like a lot of buildings down here, they were never plumed for hot and cold running water…just cold. So if you want hot water in the shower, they have shower heads with an electric heater built in, but usually there is no temperature adjustment. Anyway, a cool shower is better than no shower at all! After getting cleaned up I went out to the main square in town and it was alive with people eating, kids playing and teenagers talking and hanging out.

San Blas town square....pretty lively for Sunday night in a small town!

San Blas town square...

This was a cool second floor bar overlooking the town square...a great perch to take in the scene!

I had a few beers at a bar overlooking the square and took it all in and then some tacos from a street vender wich were pretty tasty! Fed and watered, I went back to the barn for the night.

Day 56 – Los Barriles, Baja, Mexico to Topolobampo, Mexico

Day 56 – Los Barriles, Baja, Mexico to Topolobampo, Mexico     10/16/10     Mileage: 94 + a ferry ride!

 Last night turned out to be a late one after all. I ended up meeting the owner of Rico Loco’s…..Crazy Rick himself…and ended up partying with him and his friends until 5am after the bar closed to the public. He then invited everybody back to his house 3 kilometers away, a great house right on the beach! Rick is an ex Baja off-road racer, now bar owner, and apparently donates quite a bit to local schools and charities…pretty cool. So after shaking out the cobwebs and saying adios and gracias to Rick, I was off to La Paz to catch the ferry to Topolobampo on mainland Mexico. This will be ferry ride number 4 for me and the KLR and will take 8 hours to cross the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez).

The California Star....my home for the next 8 hours...

The KLR strapped in for ferry ride number 4...

Inside the Baja Ferry California Star...

A view from the bridge of the California Star...

Good bye Baja, next stop mainland Mexico...

The ferry ride was great and very comfortable, complete with a cocktail waitress in a mini-miniskirt that also sang 4 sets of Mexican folk songs. Needless to say she was popular with the local Mexican gents.

Here's a shot of this little latin number....while doing a latin number....while doing a number on the local Mexican gents!

 The ferry pulled into Topolobampo at 9pm…well after dark, so I was looking for a place to stay as soon as I got off the boat. The main road out of town goes towards Los Mochis, and along the way I found a no-tell-motel, and decided to give it a try. “Motels” in Mexico are very different from hotels, as they are rented largely for one purpose…and that is to shag someone you probably shouldn’t be in the first place. This one was 150 pesos…or around $12. Each room has its own garage to put your car in, so that your wife won’t see it when she drives by with her boyfriend.

Even the KLR got her own room tonight. Like me though, there was no one else to fool around with...

The front door to my shag palace...

My room was relatively clean and came complete with running cool and cold water, breath mints and a brass stripper dancing pole.

That pole is not there to hold the roof up!

Swingin' babay, yeah!

The bedding looked clean, but I didn’t take any chances and put the ground sheet for my tent on the bed and slept in my sleeping bag liner.

Not taking any chances...

If you extend your stay and they need to get more money from you, there is a convenient pass-through in the back wall so you don’t have to leave your room and risk being found out!

You put more money in here and spin it around to pass it to the hotel staff to stealthly extend your stay.

So after a cool shower, I was off to bed to catch up on some sleep from the night before.

Here's a shot the next morning of all the empty "rooms"!

Most of these motels also have walls around them for additional privacy.

If you're ever in Topolobampo, MX....give motel Popeye a try! Lol!

Day 55 – Ciudad Constitucion, Baja, MX to San Barilles, Baja, MX

Day 55 – Ciudad Constitucion, Baja, MX to San Barriles, Baja, MX     10/15/10     Mileage: 333

 The morning fog burned off to bright dry sunshine and I was on the gas to make time. The first stop would be the Baja Ferry terminal in La Paz to get a ticket to mainland Mexico and do the import paperwork for the KLR. As I was leaving the ferry terminal, I saw two other bikers on Honda XR’s, so I went over to chat. Luke and Toby are from the Vancouver Canada area….right where I was 10 days ago! They are on the road for a few months on their way to Panama…maybe farther. We exchanged emails and may cross paths again in Central America.

L to R: Luke and Toby from Canada...and their Honda XR's

After that I made a B-line for Cabo to check things out.

On my way to Cabo, I crossed the Tropic of Cancer...cool!

Well, I came over the hill to see Cabo…complete with a cruise ship, a Home Depot, Walmart, Costco…and every other chain and box store in anytown USA. So, I hung a left, and were it not for the numerous traffic lights, I might not of even put a foot down.

On the way into Cabo...

I’m sure there is a nice part of Cabo, but I wasn’t willing to spend the time to hunt it down.  So with that I moved on to Los Cabos which is a bit more low-key, but still pretty geared towards big resorts and “2 week” tourists.

Los Cabos resort beaches...

I stopped off for some fish tacos and a beer, explored the kind of quaint “downtown”,  then moved on to my next target…Los Barriles. Now this town was more like it and I immediately liked being there! I imagine that it is now what Cabo was 30 years ago. There’s a tiny downtown with a few bars and restaurants…but still has that sleepy backwater vibe. I parked myself in Loco Rico’s which is a cafe (with wifi) by day, and a bar by night.

Loco Rico's

Loco Rico's...internet cafe by day, hopping bar by night...

Tonight was karaoke night and the bar is filled with ex-pat gringos…retired and otherwise…singing oldies and other sing-along favorites. It’s a big Friday night in Baja!  😉

Day 54 – Undisclosed desert campsite, Baja, MX to Ciudad Constitucion, Baja, MX

Day 54 – Undisclosed desert campsite, Baja, MX to Ciudad Constitucion, Baja, MX     10/14/10     Mileage: 424

 I was up early, quickly packed the bike and departed my stealth campsite shortly after dawn. It was foggy but pleasantly cool and I was on the gas to make time. The road was straight for miles on end, much like those deserted roads in Nevada and the desert southwest….ideal for making time by taking some liberties with the speed limit.

Along Highway 1 south...

Along Highway 1 south...

I stopped for gas once before getting to Santa Rosalita situated right on the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez).

Santa Rosalita

Santa Rosalita waterfront...

It was an OK little town, but lacked something that would make it worth staying for more than lunch. For that said lunch, I picked a restaurant on the top of a small hill overlooking the harbor. It wasn’t until I was inside that I realized I was in a Chinese place…in Mexico. Oh well, I wasn’t getting suited back up just to find some fish tacos, so I’ll have the numero quatro with a huevo roll, gracias. Seems Chinese food is the same everywhere…not good, not bad…and fills the hole. So after stuffing myself with sweet and sour chicken, I was off down the east coast of Baja.

This is a long way from Alaska!

The scenery along this area of the coast was stunning with great little secluded beaches, most with little cabanas and beach bars…I had to at least stop for a beer.

There were numerous beach coves all with cabanas and beach bars....nice!

...and another awesome beach...

...and another!

More great scenery along Highway 1

After that it was back on the gas down highway 1 which cuts back across to the western side of Baja to the town of Ciudad Constitucion…where I found a room for $28 with secure parking for the bike.

"Main Street" in Ciudad Constitucion...

I walked around town looking for good wifi, but came up empty. Looks like the blog will have to wait for La Paz or Cabo to get updated…

Day 53 – Mikes Sky Ranch, Baja, MX to Undisclosed desert campsite, Baja, MX

Day 53 – Mikes Sky Ranch, Baja, MX to Undisclosed desert campsite, Baja, MX     10/13/10     Mileage: 322
 
I was up relatively early, and after settling my bar tab for last night, I packed up the bike to leave. On my way out I asked about the road from here back to highway 1, to which his broken english response was…very bad. Well, that did not bode well as the road so far was already bad enough for the loaded-up KLR. The other problem is that I hate to backtrack and pay for the same real estate twice. So faced with 50+ miles of even worse road than yesterday or backtracking some 30 miles…I chose to press ahead and take my chances. Well, let’s just say the result of that decision was my first unscheduled exit from the saddle of the bike, but luckily it happened at relatively low speed.

This day is not starting out well. And for those of you who know Johnny O....all I could hear is his loud laughing cackle ringing in my ears!

The down side is it was on a steep rutted uphill and the bike was upside down off the side of the road. Mo….ther….***ker!! Well if this doesn’t suck the ***king big one, I don’t know what does! So, I set about removing all the bags and excess weight to make it easier to pick up. As the bike landed on the downhill side, there was no way to pick it up facing that direction. So, I would have to rotate the bike on its side so the wheels were downhill…and then I can use the hill to help pick up the bike instead of fighting against it. Just then, the guy from Mike’s Ranch strolled up and asked in spanish if I needed a hand. Hell yes I said…that makes things a whole lot easier. As I wasn’t far from the ranch, maybe he heard the engine screaming up the hill followed by the abrupt stop of me hitting the engine kill switch on the way over! Either way I’m not sure, but I was glad for the help. With both of us, we were able to get the bike upright and walk it around so it was facing downhill for me to ride to the bottom. Whew. He said the road was like this the whole way, so there was no way I was going to risk damaging me or the bike for 50 miles of that…my only choice was to backtrack. Crap…I hate backtracking!

OK, so the hill does not look like mutch...they never do in the photos.

He did however tell me of a 30 mile dirt shortcut that goes from Colonia Lazaro Cardenas to San Vicente…and would save me from backtracking all the way to Ensenada. I was sold…because as you may know…I hate backtracking! So after putting all the gear back on the bike, I set off back towards highway 3. This time I put the helmet cam on…

On the way back to Highway 3 from Mike's

Cam1

Cam2

Cam 3

Cam 4

Cam 5

Cam 6

Cam 7

Cam 8

Cam 9 - Back on the road!

Once back on the road, I headed back towards Colonia Lazaro Cardenas
where I found the dirt shortcut with some help from the locals. It ended up being pretty good as far as dirt roads go.

On the "shortcut" to San Vicente....

Great view from this shortcut through the mountains...

I even came across this fellow out in the middle of f**king no ware working on the road. He stopped me and asked for some water, and I was all too happy to share mine since I was riding on his handy work.

This is no place to run out of water!

I'm glad to share though...I felt bad for the guy!

Cam 21

Cam 22 - Don't go to far left!

Cam 23

After an hour of dusty mountain dirt road, I finally arrived back at highway 1…hung a left and gunned it to start making up some time. The scenery could easily pass for the US desert southwest, with long stretches of empty desert broken up by the occasional dusty town.

On Highway 1 heading south...

Highway 1 south...

I'm glad the KLR is still in one piece after this mornings wee off...

In case you were wondering what a "gas station" looks like in the middle of the Baja desert.....now you know.

Fill it up super....errrrr....never mind, just fill it...

One more of the Baja desert along Highway 1 south...

I didn’t take many pictures today, but will make more of an effort to stop and take some pictures tomorrow. With sunlight fading, I needed to find someplace to pull off the road as I didn’t want to break the golden rule of adventure motorcycling…never ride at night.

My "stealth camp" in the Baja desert...

So with 45 minutes of daylight left, I made a left and started down a dirt track, then veered off into the open desert and found a nice low spot that was pretty well hidden. The weather forecast overnight was clear, cool with the chance of a passing bandito, so I think I’ll cover the bike just in case.  😉

Parting shot...

Day 52 – Sand Diego, CA to Mikes Sky Ranch, Baja, MX

Day 52 – Sand Diego, CA to Mikes Sky Ranch, Baja, MX     10/12/10     Mileage: 220

The morning was cool and there was some ocean fog still lingering about. I broke camp, adjusted the chain on the KLR a bit and was off for the border. I crossed in Tijuana, and went straight for the fast toll road towards Ensenada to get me as far away from the Tijuana craziness as fast as possible!

Welcome to Mexico....now get me the "F" out of Tijuana!

Once a comfortable distance from the border, I crossed over to the slower “libre” road.

This must be Mexico's version of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janiero...

Once in Ensenada, I stopped into the “tourist” office for my tourist card and import paperwork for the bike. The tourist card was no problem, but I was told I would have to do the import paperwork in La Paz, were I plan on catching the ferry to the mainland in a few days. With that more or less squared away, I was off to find gas and some pesos. Once that was complete I made tracks for the relative security of Rt 3 and the open country to the east of Ensenada.

These rock formations remind me of Joshua Tree near Palm Springs...

Scene from Highway 3...

My goal was to reach Mike’s Sky Ranch, a famous motel/bar in the middle of the Baja desert high country. It is popular with Baja racers and off-road enthusiasts of all stripes as it is apparently located in some very rugged country along an equally rugged road. And boy they weren’t kidding! Trust me when I tell you that nothing short of a 4×4 truck or jeep, a quad or an off road motorcycle will make it there! A rugged and desolate road is very much under stating the reality…and that makes for a very select clientele! The KLR is big and quite a handful off-road without any gear strapped to it…and with all the extra weight of the gear, it handles like a piano. I’m glad to have kept it shiny side up to arrive good and thirsty at Mike’s little oasis in the mountainous desert.

Back on the dirt...before it got rugged!

On the way to Mike's Sky Ranch...some 21 miles up a rugged dirt road.

I don't have pictures of the more rugged sections...as I was busy keeping the bike upright!

This place is super cool and must have been host to numerous epic parties over the years. Today however, I have the entire place to myself save for the two caretakers. After setting up my tent, I immediately procured a cerveza…$2 a pop for an ice cold Pacifico…nice!!

Entrance to Mike's Sky Ranch...and oasis in the desert!

Almost every window and flat surface is covered with stickers.....mostly related to off road racing!

Not too bad to pull in hot and thirsty from the desert and see this!

My "campsite" for the night...

Complete with an awesome sunset...

There isn’t any wifi and certainly no cell service, so after studying the map, reading the guide book and downing a few more $2 beers, I was off to my tent for a nights rest.

Day 51 – San Diego, CA

Day 51 – San Diego, CA     10/11/10     Mileage: Local miles

 Today I had some last minute errands to run before going south of the border into Mexico, so after saying goodbye to Bob and Janet, I was off. First stop was REI to return a cook set that decided against. Next was the bank to get some gringo hundred dollar bills…but it was a bank holiday…crap! Oh well, next stop was Starbucks to get a coffee, send some emails, make some calls and upload some blog posts. As I was sitting there at an outside table, I guy on an F650 pulled up and introduced himself. His name is Philipp and he is from Brazil but living in San Diego. It turns out he made the run from San Diego to Deadhorse last year…pretty cool! He had planned on making the run to Tierra del Fuego this year but had to put it off until next year.

Philipp and his BMW F650

He’s also planning on starting up a motorcycle touring operation in SoCal aimed at Brazilian tourists. I told him to keep me in mind if he needs a guide in around 6 months! Ha! By the time I got done with everything, it was a bit too late to start into Mexico, so I found a campsite right near the border and packed it in. Tomorrow I’ll be able to cross into Mexico after a quick stop at the bank for some greenbacks…

I’m OK and doing great!

For those of you worried for my safety after seeing my SPOT tracker freak out the other night…I’m fine! I left it on accidentally overnight in the middle of nowhere in the mountains of northern Baja…and it was sending all kinds of weird location tracks. I’m currently in southern Baja…trying to find good wireless to update the blog. I should be in La Paz or Cabo by tomorrow.

Thanks!

-Lenny

Day 50 – San Diego, CA

Day 50 – San Diego, CA     10/10/10     Mileage: Local miles

The morning was SoCal spectacular and we had breakfast outside on the patio. Bob and Janet’s neighbor Norma joined us and she is a real character…in addition to being a total cougar! Lol! She happens to be from Bolivia originally and traveled in Baja Mexico quite a bit, so she gave me some great information and contacts for the road(Thanks Norma!).  After breakfast we adjourned to Bob’s man cave, otherwise known as the garage. And what a 3 car garage it is… I’d be proud to call it my living room! The walls are adorned with racing posters and memorabilia and pictures of Bob from his days racing Formula V and Formula Ford race cars.

Me and my Uncle Bob...

Bob's man cave...I love it! One of these days...

Me and Janet...

Me and Norma...

Bob and Janet's house...

 There also happens to be BMW 335i turbo hard-top convertible parked in there also…so that spiffs things up a bit! After that I was off to run some errands and change the KLR’s oil.

The old turkey pan in the parking lot oil change trick...

And no trip to SoCal would be complete without a stop at In-N-Out…so I got that done also!

In-N-Out...a SoCal institution!

This place was hoppin! Look how many they have working behind the counter!

Back at the house, Janet had another nice dinner prepared and Norma joined us for a drink as well. We had some great laughs and good conversation before calling it a night. Tomorrow I’ll be heading for Mexico after taking care of some last minute tasks.