Day 266 – Indiaroba to Olinda, Brazil

Day 266 – Indiaroba to Olinda, Brazil      05/14/11      Mileage: 376

I was up, out and on the gas by 8:30 hoping to make it as far as Recife.

The pousada….nothing fancy for sure, but it’s my kind of place and it was only $14 with breakfast….

Table for (only) one. I was, no surprise, the only guest there…

As has become my M.O. when I’m riding to make time, I didn’t even stop for a picture…except to wipe an enormous glob of bug guts off of my sunglasses.

Sunglasses – 1
 Big, juicy Brazilian bug – 0

I did stop off at the Honda dealer looking for chain lube….and there it was, a Honda in KTM orange…but none in Kawasaki green.   Oh, and for some reason Honda dealers do not carry chain lube here….I stopped in 4 different dealers in as many towns…none. I had to go to a “local” shop to find some….strange.

I rolled into Recife just at dusk and went about finding a room. It took a while to find but I eventually found one in Olinda, a historic town 3 miles up the coast from the downtown.

Again…nothing fancy, but it’s a dry roof….

Once again the hotel owner was extremely welcoming, like only a mother can be. She did everything but make me a fruit salad (like my mother!).

I did have to expel the previous occupant of my room. Oh, and in case you’re wondering, Brazilian cockroaches are not good swimmers….   😉

So after settling in I walked down the oceanside avenue for dinner and some beers….big surprise there. Hopefully the weather will cooperate tomorrow so I can have a look around….


Day 265 – Itubera to Indiaroba, Brazil

Day 265 – Itubera to Indiaroba, Brazil 05/13/11 Mileage: 252

It was going to be a short ride up the coast to catch the ferry to Salvador, so I lingered a bit to use the hotel wifi. Itubera ended up being a really nice little town….the kind you won’t find in any guide book and will only stumble upon by chance….and I’m glad I did! It’s like Frenchtown, NJ at home… won’t find it in any international guide book for the U.S., but a foreign tourist would love to stumble upon it.

Me and the Hotel Jerusalem where I spent the night…..shalom!   lol

Once packed and on the road it took about 2 hours to get to the ferry which departed a few minutes after I arrived….perfect timing!

The KLR strapped in for ferry ride number…..errrr….oh hell I have no idea….I lost count…

It started pouring half way across the bay but fortunately had stopped by the time the ferry arrived at the terminal in Salvador.

The Salvador skyline from the ferry….

The GPS was note able to route me to the historic town center, so I was doing a bit of dead reckoning to find my way. Well, I managed to dead reckon myself into what has to be the roughest part of Salvador as it would make the roughest neighborhoods of the Bronx back in the day look like Candyland. I didn’t stop for even a picture and just kept rolling until I found my way back to a main avenue…and did eventually find my way to the historic center.

 The main square was quite nice, but I was hounded as soon as I stopped by pushy fucks wanting me to stay at their hotels or take their tours. I had to wave them to move so I could get a picture of the square without them in it.

They continued to hound me so I just got back on the bike and left to go check out the waterfront and the nicer section of town.

When I stopped to take this picture on the waterfront….a guy ran from down the street to tell me about the hotels he was pushing….I said no thanks…but when he didn’t stop I just got back on the bike and rode away.

I pulled into a waterfront parking area lined with restaurants and again was hounded by people pushing me to eat at their place.

Maybe it’s just me but that turns me off, so turned the bike around and split.

This guy spoke english and we chatted for a minute at a traffic light…nice guy…he sais he had a bike and would love to do a trip like mine…

I continued along the waterfront but didn’t see anything compelling me to stay and I was starting to feel a little “big city’ed out” anyway, so I continued up the coast. Maybe Salvador will have to wait for next time.

Lane splitting is great for beating traffic…but dicey sometimes! I think it should be legal back home…(it is in California!)

There wasn’t much in the way of towns or services on this part of the BA 001, so I had to ride an hour or so in the dark before finding a room in a little pousada in Indiaroba. Tomorrow, it’s back on the road north…

Day 264 – Linhares to Itubera, Brazil

Day 264 – Linhares to Itubera, Brazil 05/12/11 Mileage: 411

I was up relatively early, packed and on the bike by 8. The weather was overcast which was a shame because plan today was to check out some beach towns that were recommended to me Sabine and Gisa. My first stop was Porto Seguro which was nice, right on the beach and full of bars, restaurants and shops.

Next I took a short ferry across to Arraial da Ajuda which is perched on a hill above the beach. It was more quaint and tranquilo than Porto Seguro and had a nice vibe to it.

Arraial da Ajuda

Lastly I headed to Trancoso which several people told me I had to check out. Unfortunately by the time I arrived it was raining but I rode around and had a look anyway and worked my way down to the beach.

The beach in Trancoso…very nice!

The Ferrari dealership closed up shop….after all it’s more of a Land Rover market anyway…  😉

I would have found a place to stay, but with the weather there was just no point, so I split for the BR101 north. The rain continued on and off, and when the roads are dry and when there are no speed bumps or trucks…the BR101 is a pretty nice ride full of hills, twists and turns. I veered off onto the BA001 which was a smaller road that ran closer to the coast. It also made for good riding as it weaved through some very small towns and villages. At dusk I found a room in the quaint small town of Itubera. After settling in I wandered out and had a lite dinner in a little open square next to the river that had a nice little scene going on.

I giant fried burrito type thingy, smothered in hot sauce, washed down by a giant beer…or two. Now that’s livin’…

263 – Sao Jaoa de Vicosa to Linhares, Brazil

Day 263 – Sao Jaoa de Vicosa to Linhares, Brazil       05/11/11       Mileage: 343

It was a mix of sun, clouds and rain all day today and it was all business making miles north.

This bridge has seen better days….

Progress however is painfully slow at times with only 1 lane in either direction and the countless slow moving trucks. I’ll be bombing along at 80 mph when around a bend I’ll have to wail on the breaks down to 15 mph for a decrepit old truck struggling to get up the slightest of hills. I must have passed well over a thousand trucks today…no exaggeration. At times I was passing 3, 4, 5 at a time…then diving back into my lane at the last second. Today I wish I could have transformed the KLR into GSXR1100…

Parting shot: Sunset over the BR101 north….

Day 262 – Ouro Preto to Sao Jaoa de Vicosa, Brazil

Day 262 – Ouro Preto to Sao Jaoa de Vicosa, Brazil        05/10/11       Mileage: 211

I enjoyed the nice breakfast spread that the B&B put out and took some time to get another blog post up. Once that was done I packed the bike and hit the road toward the coast.

Last shot of Ouro Preto on the way out of town….

The weather was great again and the road twisted its way through the small rolling mountains. I was on the gas and just wasn’t compelled to stop and take many pictures.

OK, I took this one when I was forced to stop for some road maintenance…

….and this one when I stopped for gas and food…

…and this one so you can see what most towns look like in rural Brazil….becasue they all don’t look like Ouro Preto.

Shortly before dark it started to rain so I pulled of and got a room at truck stop. Soon after stopping it started to rain in earnest so I was pretty happy with that decision. Hopefully it clears by tomorrow so I can get an early start and make some miles…

Day 261 – Ouro Preto, Brazil

Day 261 – Ouro Preto, Brazil      05/09/11      Mileage: 0

The B&B was well over my budget, but it was very nice and Ouro Preto was so quaint, I decided to stay another day. Now, I could also take the time to have a nice long walk around town to see the sights.

Here are some pics of the B&B…

The view from the 2nd floor balcony…

Look at the size of my room key… losing that!

The weather was great as I walked around town….here are the pics….

That’s a very picturesque town for sure. So after my walk I relaxed at the B&B and got caught up on the blog and my guide book reading. At night I walked around the town square and got dinner and a few beers at a cozy little pizzeria.

Roughing it on the road again….

I also saw what might be my and my buddy Paul B’s dream truck….a Land Rover crew cab pickup…diesel with a snorkel kit of course.  I want it!! (That was for you Tracy)

Tomorrow it’s back on the road towards the coast…

Day 260 – Rio de Janeiro to Ouro Preto, Brazil

Day 260 – Rio de Janeiro to Ouro Preto, Brazil      05/05/11      Mileage: 264

This morning I went back to the beach and there were even more people out and about than yesterday afternoon. Being Sunday morning, they even closes 3 lanes of the road closest to the beach making way for pedestrians and bikes. Several volleyball matches were already going and it was quite a scene.

Oh, and did I mention that I haven’t seen one overweight person in Rio…not one! It seems like it has to be one of the healthiest cities I’ve ever scene….like a giant Boulder Colorado on the beach! I also made a little time to update the blog, then packed and hit the road around noon.

One last shot of Sugarloaf in the sun….

…and one of Christ the Redeemer and Corcovado.

Once outside of Rio the road started up into the mountains and became twisty good fun full of 3rd and 4th gear corners, then opened up for another 150 miles of rolling hills and 5th gear sweepers. I had so much fun I hardly stopped for a picture…and in fact didn’t. Oops! Anyway, I pulled into the colonial town of Ouro Preto and immediately liked it. I’m not sure what it is about colonial towns that I like…I just do.


The the main square in Ouro Preto…

I also found a room in a super quaint B&B in an authentic colonial period house just off the main square. The owner was very welcoming and made sure that I had everything I needed. So after taking a quick shower I went out for a bite and a few beers. Tomorrow I’ll have a better look around….